Their Milkshake Brings EVERYONE to the Star:
And yes, it's waaay better than yours.
Dulce. de. Leche. Milkshake. (My version had the added kick of a shot of Old Granddad Whiskey mixed in - my idea, but Bev. Dir - and confidante - Michael Rubel assured me that I wasn't the first one to grown-up-ize my shake.) For those of you who aren't as well-versed in cusine-jargon as I, Dulce de Leche, literally "sweet of the milk" in Spanish, is just a fancy term for creamy, gooey, mouthwatering caramel. And the geniuses at Big Star have captured the soul of that caramelly goodness in a milkshake. It's not too sweet, so you won't go into sugar shock, and it's not too thick, so your straw doesn't get constantly clogged up (as a former employee of Anthony's Italian Ice in Lincoln Park, I KNOW how hard it is to achieve the perfect milkshake consistency - it is truly an expert task), and the shake is whipped just so there is a light, frothy, caramel foam resting at the top. And, because whiskey makes EVERYTHING taste better, I stirred in a $3 shot of Old Granddad, which really heightened the caramel finish of the shake and gave it an overall kind of sharper taste (but in a good way); plus, how fucking cool would you feel drinking a milkshake with whiskey in it???
Ok, now to the rest of the grub:
Big Star - Not Just For Fat Kids
As a confirmed Fat Kid, I love places that cater to my tastes. This includes pork, beer, pork fat, and tasty accoutrements to the aforementioned. Big Star, I felt like I was coming home.
I went with 5 friends on a Wednesday evening at about 7:45pm. The place was wall-to-wall packed, and tables (there are only 6 of them) were in high demand. There were people eating EVERYWHERE, even perched atop the waiter's station. I remember the inside of Pontiac being a lot bigger - perhaps there needs to be some logistical re-tooling of Big Star's interior - the square bar that takes up a good 5/8 of the space is massive - the bartenders have more room to navigate than the patrons do, which doesn't really seem fair; we're the ones who came to eat [and pay].
We found 2 stools and immediately staked our claim, plunking down and rolling up our sleeves to tuck in to the tacos we had all been hearing about. I began with a paloma - which tasted nearly exactly like a well-crafted margarita, as in, I could taste the tequila, which I consider to be a very good thing (sour mix-heavy cocktails need not apply here); at $7 a good value, although the beer list has more bang for your buck - (7oz Schlitz for $1, High-Life, Tecate, and Lone Star for $3, plus assorted microbrews all topping out at about $5). My friend ordered a michelada - a tasty concoction of Tecate, Lime Juice, and salsa (I'll get to the salsa shortly) with a salt rim. I'd replace my Sunday morning Bloody with a michelada anytime - it was tart and spicy and refreshing all at once. There is also an impressive array of sodas available, even BIRCH BEER (a childhood favorite), for a cool $3 a pop (pun - get it?).
We took full advantage of managing to flag down our [often absent and slightly disorganized - we ordered guacamole twice before it actually went through, and she seemed to favor the other side of the bar to ours] waitress and ordered a variety of the tacos and tostadas. They were out of the braised goat taco, which was disappointing, but I live about 100 feet from here and will definitely be back to try it. The menu, although small, has a decent variety of fillings from which to choose, as well as a few side dishes and apps. The guacamole is delicious; topped with crunchy slivers of fresh radish and redolent of lime juice, the only improvement to be made is the portion size. The chips are clearly freshly fried - we seized the opportunity of having [many] leftover chips from our guac to sample the 3 salsas available in squeeze bottles atop the bar: Green top: Salsa verde, very lime-y, not too spicy, and very tasty; Yellow top: My personal favorite, a sticky, garlicky salsa roja with a slightly sweet finish - literally, I could drink this stuff; Red top: Probably chipotle based, the spiciest of the three, with a delicious smoky flavor.
After a considerable wait [but hey, the place was packed, and newly opened, so I will give them some leeway on this], our tacos arrived. I had spoken to at least 6 independent sources prior to dining at Big Star, and all had said that the tacos, although small, were mightily delicious. Would they measure up to the hype? The answer is... YES! Amazingly so. I'll give a rundown of each that we ordered:
-Taco al pastor: Braised pork shoulder with sweet chunks of sticky pineapple - savory and sugary, definitely delicious, although the pork, in my opinion, was just a *touch* on the dry side.
-Taco al panza: Fatty, sweet, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly goodness, topped with a flurry of cotija cheese - heads above even the roasted duck breast and corn salsa taco from de cero - I left in a pork belly coma, and am still dreaming about this taco the next day; my mouth is literally watering for one even as I write this. At $3, I could scarf these all night; I'd suffer the slings and arrows of congestive heart failure, high cholesterol, and any other ailment overconsumption of pork belly could lead to. Top 10 best things I've ever put in my mouth (get your heads out of the gutter)
-Tacos de rajas de poblano: Always conscious of the vegetarians, this taco is surprisingly delicious; sweet and smoky strips of poblano peppers topped with a grilled slab of charry-melty cheese. The poblano was grilled in such a fashion that it almost took on a meaty quality.
-Tostadas al pescado: Creamy and crunchy and refreshing, this tostada comes with a generous hunk of smooth avocado atop the fish, sliced radishes, crispy lettuce, and poblano cream; I was worried that the tostada shell would be soggy, but it remained perfectly crispy and delicious. Can't wait for the patio to open in the summer because this tostada will be perfect for warm weather refreshment.
-Tostadas al pollo: During round 2 of taco consumption, I decided to give the chicken a chance. Normally, I steer away from ordering chicken in restaurants because I don't feel it is special enough, but something told me I wouldn't be disappointed. Perhaps it was the description: braised chicken thighs, black beans, and crunchy chayote (a close prima to summer squash, melon, and cucumber). Although the pork belly holds the numero uno spot in my heart, the chicken tostada came through to take a close second place finish - the combination of the tender chicken and beans really warmed me up from the inside out; definitely a winter-perfect little dish.
The best part of the evening was when the bill came: $85 for 6 people, 4 of whom had alcohol and all of whom ate their fill (especially me). Another perk is that tax is included in the tab total, so there's no messy splitting of the bill - just pay and tip.
Word to the wise: A late night take out window is in the works, so if you ever need to know where to find me at 2am on a Friday or Saturday evening, just look in the undoubtedly long line at the 1531 N. Damen pick up window - I'll be there!
Tune in NEXT week (or whenever I have time - I'm a busy gal these days), when I will regale you with tales of what I chewed on in Washington, D.C.! TTFN (let's bring that back)
